Run Through the Jungle

In all our previous trips to the Big Island we have visited Pololu Lookout but we have never walked down to the black sand beach.  This time we not only walked down but we also walked up from the other side of the beach.  Down the trail was about 20 minutes but up the other side was a steep 40 minute hike up to another lookout through a sometimes very narrow heavy growth path.  Coming back down this path took quite awhile as well because it was not only steep but also very slippery in places.  My Teva sandals were probably not the best choice for this hike.  Then the final trip back out of the valley to the lookout was hot and steep.  There were a lot of stops on the way back up to "let's...gasp...look...huff...at....wheeze...the...pant....view".
During the day we met a couple from Durango, Colorado, Kelly and Jill, who are staying in Kapa'au which is just down from Hawi.  We got talking about cribbage for some reason and said we should get together for a game which then escalated to a dinner back at our place.  We had grilled swordfish with grilled asparagus and basil/spinach pasta.  The cribbage game was heated with Jill and I winning the first game but then Kelly and Mary coming back to skunk us and win the best of three contest.

We're hoping to go out for dinner with them to Minnie's and finish of the evening with a rematch.with a rematch.

Tropical Dreams

This was our first full day in Hawi and we were given a tour of the gardens around our cottage by Jennifer, our host.  This is definitely the place to grow whatever you like.  She has a variety of bamboo growing on her property along with citrus trees, a huge avacado tree, a pineapple patch and an array of flowers.  She also has coffee plants and she walked us through the process of making coffee beans.  I will include some pictures of the garden later.
After the tour we went to the Waimea mid-week market so we could get our new supply of basil and spinach pasta.  I've got to learn how to make that stuff.  From there we went down to a beach at Spencer Park near Kawaihae to test out our new snorkel gear.  I'm coming to the conclusion that I'm not that good at snorkeling, but I will persevere.  It was still a good day at the beach.
After the beach we returned to Hawi and walked off down our mile long road into Hawi.  We had promised ourselves Tropical Dreams ice cream cones if we walked into town and back.  Hawi is an old Hawaiian town with funky little shops and restaurants and the cones were not a disappointment.

On returning to our bucolic little cottage we took advantage off our outdoor shower(first time I've ever showered outdoors)before finishing the day with pasta, cheese, tomatoes and fried bread.....with wine.

I'm Movin' Out

This was moving day.  We packed up at our place at Waikoloa Village, the Tropical Suite.  We had a great time there.  Jennifer and Tom are excellent hosts who help wherever and whenever they can.  Leaving today was like leaving after a visit with friends. Mary made sure to say goodbye to Pueo, their rescue cat who sleeps just outside our door.

So, we had about 4 hours before we could check in to our new place in Hawi.  So, where to go?  Beach 69, of course, which is named for its location, near the mile 69 marker on Highway 19.  Today the surf is actually subsiding and we hope to get some snorkeling in soon.  After the beach we had to stop for Happy Hour at the Seafood Bar in Kawaihae, another favourite stop.  We had our seafood quesadilla and fries along with a couple of Happy Hour libations.

Finally up to Hawi (ha-VEE) to find the Bamboo Cottage, home for the next 9 nights.  Suffice it to say the Mary was very happy when we arrived .  We came here just after 4:00, it is now past 10:00 and she still has a smile on her face.  It's a wonderful self contained cottage with original stained glass windows (one of the hosts is the artist), two showers, one inside, one out and a large screened lanai.  It shouldn't be too hard to stay here for the next few nights.

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Blow in' in the Wind/Sittin' on Top O' the World

Today the Tradewinds were still blowing strong.  We went down to check out 49 Black Sands Beach because it had been closed yesterday due to high surf.  We were given a pass and allowed in.  The beach was a private secluded beach with very few people there.  We settled in, high enough from the water (we have learned our lesson), sat back and soon realized why so few people were on the beach. Within 15 minutes we pretty much had fine black sand in all those hard to reach spots.  So we packed up and decided to go look at some petroglyphs near Puako.  Before we went to it we did an interesting beach hike and watched some surfers who are loving this high surf.  To end our search for a good beach we went back to our old faithful, Beach 69.

After our beach time we headed home, rounded up some warm clothes we borrowed from Jennifer and Tom and headed off for the Mauna Kea lookout station.  We hustled up the road in order to catch the sunset from 9400 feet.  When we got there we threw on all the layers of clothes we could along with our gloves and hiked up a hill to catch the sunset.  I've used this word a lot in this blog, but once again it was beautiful.  We were above all the clouds as the sun set behind them.  It was like when you're in an airplane.
Later we hiked down to the visitors' center to take a look at Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and the moon through very high powered telescopes.  We could even see some of Jupiter's moons. Through another telescope we were able to see a star "nursery "in the constellation of Orion.  A very cool place, both literally and figuratively.

Wahines in Bikinis

We had a sloooooow day on Sunday after we danced the night away on Saturday.  We managed to drag ourselves to a beach but the surf was still high and the Tradewinds were blowing.  Spent a bit of time on a little beach by the M

auna Lani then went home to do some much needed laundry.

In the evening we went to the Blue Dragon restaurant in Kawihae.  Mary has always wanted to go and John Keawe was playing so we thought this would be a good time.  From the road the restaurant looks kind of dumpy but inside it is open to the sky and surrounded by palm trees.  John Keawe was great as usual and Mary even got up and did a hula lesson with his wife.
(The title of this blog refers to a line from a song Keawe performed)

Who Knows Where The Time Goes

After our evening at The Coconut Cottage in Pahoa, with a breakfast of macadamia nut pancakes to fuel us, we headed south for the alternative community of Kalapana.  Our hosts told us of a brand new black sand beach that is forming on the coast by this little town.  We hiked over some fairly young lava and came to this beautiful little beach.  While walking over the lava you can see where the locals have been planting coconuts to reclaim the land.  After this we went to the local market...this place makes Rosswood look mainstream.  First you notice a lot of Kingdom of Hawaii signs and flags, and these guys believe in their independence.  A lot of free spirits right out of the 60s and beyond.  We got talking to this one vendor who was selling tulsi herbal tea which is laced with ginger.  A very hot drink that is supposed to be good for everything.  He also stated that all the big grocery stores are trying to kill the people. "Why else would they put chemicals into the food?"

After our market experience and leaving with our bottle of tulsi tea safely enclosed in a plastic bag we headed down the Red Road, so named because it had first been made with red cinder, but now it's just narrow black pavement.  A beautiful drive along the coast, though.  We made a quick stop in old town Pahoa, the town which has been threatened by lava flow.  They expect to lose both their new police station and fire hall.  We saw a bit of smoke in the area but no actual lava.  We tried to go down one road but were turned around by some military personnel.

From there we drove north through Hilo with a stop in Honokaa for pizza at Il Mondo....great pizza.  The restaurant was filled with people going to the Judy Collins concert.  We tried to convince a couple of people to sell us their tickets but no takers.

When we got back to Waikoloa, Jennifer and Tom, our hosts, invited us to join them at a local dance at the Waikoloa Golf Course.  We had a fun time dancing the night away to a local band...who needs Judy Collins?

Almost halfway through our trip.

Kilauea - ing Me Softly

A long day with lots of driving.  We set out from Waikoloa Village at 8 this morning and drove the Saddle Road to Hilo.  From there we drove up to Rainbow Falls, the Boiling Pots and Pee'Pee Falls.  It has been quite dry so the falls weren't spectacular but they were still good to see.

After this we headed out for Volcanoes National Park.  On the way we detoured to 2400 Fahrenheit Glass Works and Mary found a piece of art that she really liked.

When we got to the park we did a quick stop at Volcano House Hotel to take a look at the caldera of Kilauea.  From there we visited some steam vents and the sulphur banks.  Lots of heat coming off the steam.  Next we drove along Chain of Craters road to a petroglyph site.  More heat as we walked across an old lava flow to the ancient site.  A bit farther down the road at the coast we had a look at Lava Arch.  Back we went along Chain of Craters Road until we got to the lava tube where we had it pretty much to ourselves.

We drove back to Volcano Village for dinner at the Kilauea Lodge.  We had a great seafood noodle dish with ahi, prawns and scallops.  Excellent.  A really beautiful dining area, too.

From there we went back to the park to the Jaggar Lookout to get a look at the core of the caldera at night.  It was quite a sight with the glow and the steam.  It was also a very clear night so there were a lot of stars and a delicate crescent moon.

It gets very dark in Hawaii and we had about a 35 mile drive back to our place in Pahoa.  We were able to find the Coconut Cottage in it's tucked away location with only one wrong turn.  Not bad.

Now off to bed while being serenaded by the very vocal coqui frogs.  A noisy little frog endemic to Puerto Rico but they have somehow found theirway to the east side of the island and have become abundant in their new location.  Earplugs tonight.

Rainbow Falls

Pee'Pee Falls

Steam Vent

Petroglyph

Lava Tube

Jaggar Lookout

Kilauea at night